Alaïa’s Spring/Summer 2025 Collection collection at New York Fashion Week 2024 redefined American beauty, blending the country’s culture with haute couture. Through Pieter Mulier’s vision, the collection explored what it means to dress like an American, reflecting both elegance and identity amidst a political atmosphere charged with the upcoming presidential election.
Pieter Mulier Brought Alaïa to New York Fashion Week 2024!
September 6, 2024. Pieter Mulier (an iconic figure in fashion – currently a creative director of Alaïa) is known for his innovative collections and memorable runway shows. His debut collection for Alaïa in Fall 2021, where he stayed true to the brand’s DNA with body-hugging silhouettes and intricate tailoring, was a game-changer for the French fashion house. His Spring 2022 show (staged in the Alaïa Paris headquarters) also highlighted Mulier’s mastery of knitwear and his ability to perfectly blend comfort with couture. My favorite Alaïa collection by Pieter Mulier so far is his Fall 2023 collection, which paid tribute to the brand’s late founder, Azzedine Alaïa, through clothing that mixed traditional craftsmanship with innovative textures and shapes. Mulier’s ability to challenge the conventional runway format and merge fashion with art is what makes him a part of the BOF 500 ( A list that includes individuals shaping the global fashion industry).
And, the biggest proff of his creativity in fashion can be seen in his recent groundbreaking Spring 2025 show at the Guggenheim Museum.
On September 6, 2024, Alaïa made history by becoming the first fashion house to organize a runway show inside the building of Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum. The last time Alaïa staged a show in the US was in 1982, when the brand’s founder, Azzedine Alaïa, debuted his collection in New York at Bergdorf Goodman. Alaïa’s Spring 2025 collection at New York Fashion Week is a poignant tribute to the brand’s legacy and Pieter Mulier’s evolution as its creative director. New York was the first place in the world where Azzedine Alaïa opened his store. It is also the same city where Mulier lived for many years while working at Calvin Klein.
Alaïa’s Spring/Summer 2025 Collection: The Greatest Fashion Show of NYFW 2024, so far!
About Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum
Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum is a renowned attraction in New York. Its history can be traced back to 1937, when the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation was also founded. This foundation opened ‘the Museum of Non-Objective Painting’ (New York’s first-ever art venue) in 1939. Designed by William Muschenheim, this museum was used to organize the exhibitions of Solomon Guggenheim’s art collection. However, it was in the 1940s when the foundation made a proposal to store Guggenheim’s art collection in a permanent building. Ultimately, the popular architect Frank Lloyd Wright made a commission to design the architecture of a new museum in NYC. After years of hard work, the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum was successfully completed & opened in 1959. With the aim of promoting modern and contemporary art through eccentric art collections, exhibitions, research initiatives & more, Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundations founded various museums across the world. This includes the Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice, the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao in Spain, the upcoming Guggenheim Abu Dhabi in the United Arab Emirates, and an iconic Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum in New York.
Alaïa’s Spring/Summer 2025 Collection at Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum
On Friday night, September 6, 2024, Alaïa made history by organizing the first fashion show in Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum’s 85-year history. For Alaïa’s Spring 2025 show, Pieter Mulier fuses art, architecture, and couture in a way that feels both historic and emotionally charged. The museum’s iconic rotunda, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, served as the perfect architectural backdrop for the Alaïa’s deep connection to its American roots and the innovative vision of creative director Pieter Mulier. The concrete ramps spiraled upwards in the museum, creating a stunning visual as models descended. The ramps looked like fluid, moving runways.
Opening of Alaïa’s Spring/Summer 2025 Collection
The show opened in a modest yet impactful way, with dark music playing in the background – Mona Tougaard opened the fashion show in an elegant low-waist skirt and black top, accessorized with minimal jewelry. As the music started changing, the models started coming down from the concrete ramps in a circular path. The visuals during this moment were magical – the atmosphere was one of intimate grandeur. Models, including Supermodels like Kendall Jenner and Vittoria Ceretti, walked gracefully down the Guggenheim’s spiraling ramps.
Alaïa’s Spring/Summer 2025 Collection: What You Need to Know?
Alaïa’s Spring/Summer 2025 Collection is again a continuation of Mulier’s respect & love towards precise design vernacular (characterized by a meticulous emphasis on form & the dynamic interplay between fabric and body movement). The collection is simple and fluid, not only showing much of his creativity but also underscoring the focus on body-conscious, streamlined silhouettes. Many pieces included dramatic use of silk taffeta (a special fabric known for its unique texture and structured drape). Mulier took heavy inspiration from Charles James. Besides this, he also incorporated the use of Denim and Jersey fabrics for a contemporary take on American sportswear.
Speaking of American sportswear, Mulier also honored iconic American sportswear designers such as Clare McCardell and Halston in Alaïa’s Spring/Summer 2025 Collection. Take a look at the runway show; many pieces fall into the category of functional and comfortable designs.
I’ve noticed that many designers often try to create something magical by fusing contemporary and traditional silhouettes. But, with the aim of creating fashion history, they ended up with a fashion disaster. However, Alaïa’s Spring/Summer 2025 Collection is a perfect example of how to perfectly blend sensuality with modernity with the help of great styling. The collection featured an array of silhouettes, from second-skin bandeau bras paired with ruffled and asymmetrical skirts to billowy pants worn low on the hips – the styling was immaculate here! The styling created a striking contrast between structured and fluid elements.
My favorite styling was pairing sculpted dresses with coats. Look at the model—the simplicity, elegance, and fluidity she’s channeling are pure fashion. Lowkey, it’s giving Yohji Yamamoto!
Mulier employed intricate tailoring techniques to craft garments that seemed to coil and snake around the models’ bodies. These designs gave some dramatic twist to the collection.
“Overall Impact”
Alaïa’s Spring/Summer 2025 Collection is my favorite collection at New York Fashion Week so far. The way Mulier has played with a fabric = behavior and body dynamics is really technically impressive. The debut of this collection in the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum makes it even more iconic. I can confirm that low-waist skirts are going to be a major fashion trend in the coming months.
